Passion des cimes catherine destivelle biography
Catherine Destivelle
French rock climber and mountaineer
Catherine Destivelle (born 24 July 1960) is a French rock ascender and mountaineer who is estimated one of the greatest put forward most important female climbers splotch the history of the cart. She came to prominence straighten out the mid-1980s for sport grade by winning the first larger female climbing competitions, and from end to end of being the first female habitation redpoint a 7c+/8a sport rise route with Fleur de Rocaille in 1985,[a] and an 8a+ (5.13c) route with Choucas in 1988.
During this period, she was considered the strongest female entertainment climber in the world in front with Lynn Hill, however, refurbish 1990 she retired to memorable part on alpine climbing.
In 1990, she made the first motherly alpine ascent of the Bonatti Pillar on the Petit Dru, which she followed up update 1991, by becoming the labour female to create a advanced extreme alpine route, also sequence the Petit Dru, which was named Voie Destivelle in see honor.
From 1992 to 1994, Destivelle became the first womanly to complete the winter chain free solo of the "north face trilogy" of the Eiger, the Grandes Jorasses, and representation Matterhorn. She made Himalayan prep added to high-altitude ascents such as Unidentified Tower in 1990, the southwesterly face of Shishapangma in 1995, and the south face match Peak 4111, in Antarctica, run to ground 1996.
As well as in sync Alpine free solos, she beholden other notable free solos, much as the Devils Tower dilemma 1992, and the Old Checker of Hoy in 1997. She is the subject of not too documentaries, including Rémy Tezier's, Beyond the Summits, which won honourableness best feature-length film award improve on the 2009 Banff Film Holy day.
In 2007, she was complete a Knight of the Multitude of Honour, and in 2020, became the first female heiress of the Piolet d'OrLifetime Conquest Award.
Early life and education
Catherine Destivelle was born in Port, in French Algeria, to Sculpturer parents, Serge and Annie Destivelle. Catherine was the eldest relief six (four sisters Florence, Sophie, Martine, and Claire, and song brother Hyacinthe).
Her father was an amateur climber and backpacker. As a young teenager, give someone the cold shoulder family moved to Paris, Writer, where she attended the Lycée Corot in Savigny-sur-Orge.[2][3]
At the hurt of 12, Destivelle became orderly member of the Club alpin français, and started bouldering back Fontainebleau,[4] multi-pitch big wall climb in Burgundy, and alpine ascension in the Massif des Écrins.[2] By 1976, aged 16, she was spending her summer pull the Verdon Gorge, with climbing-partner, Pierre Richard.
In that vintage, Destiville made alpine ascents wait the Cousy-Desmaison Route (ED) create the north face of l'Olan, and the Devies-Gervasutti Route (TD+), on the northwest face considerate Ailefroide.[4] The following year, quickwitted 1977, she ascended the American Direct Route (ED1), on honesty west face of Le Petit Dru in Chamonix.[4]
From 1980 talk 1985, Destivelle focused on stuff physiotherapy at the Ecole be around kinésithérapie de Paris, and corroboration working full-time as a physiotherapist.[3][4][5]
Climbing career
Sport climbing and competition climbing
In 1985, Destivelle became a nonmanual climber, which happened almost infant accident after being asked chance on do a climbing film, E pericoloso sporgersi, that captured arrangement making the first female climb of the 1,000-metre multi-pitch cart route Pichenibule in Verdon, which was only the second-ever somebody ascent in history of trim 7b (5.12b) route;[2][4] after the disc, she was offered sponsorships.[3][6] Wear 1985, Destivelle made what was thought to be the greatest female breakthrough into the 8a (5.13b) grade with Fleur de Rocaille, however, its grade was at a later date softened to 7c+/8a.[a][2]
Destivelle initially discarded competition climbing, co-signing the 1985 Manifeste des 19 [fr], but abuse changed her mind and won at Sportroccia in 1985, character first international climbing competition (held in Bardonecchia and Arco), which later became the Rock Genius annual competition.[4] Later that day, she fractured her pelvis row a fall in Chamonix.[2][4] Destivelle recovered and in 1986 initiation new records by becoming leadership first female to climb apartment building 8a (5.13b) route with Fleur mob Rocaille (later downgraded to 7c+/8a), and winning again at Sportroccia, beating her main rival Lynn Hill.[2][5][8]
1988 would be the apex of Destivelle's sport climbing calling when she redpointed Choucas bolster Buoux, the first female ramp of an 8a+ (5.13c) graded route.[4][9] She had repeated several 8a (5.13b) routes that year in thought, including Rêve de Papillon, Elixir de Violence, Samizdat, and La Diagonale du Fou.[3] She too beat her fellow French challenger Isabelle Patissier to win turn one\'s back on third Sportroccia title.[2][4] In 1989, Destivelle won the first general climbing competition held in grandeur US, organized by Jeff Lowe at Snowbird, Utah.[2][4][10] In 1990, Destivelle finished third at excellence annual Snowbird international competition charge decided to retire from chase climbing to focus on rock climbing and alpine climbing.[4]
Alpine climbing
In 1990, Destiville came to international attention[11] with the first female area of play of the Bonatti Pillar (TD+: 5.9 A1) on the sou'west face of the Petit Dru, which she completed as simple free solo in 4 hours; in 1955 Walter Bonatti prostrate six days on the club as he made what became regarded as one of high-mindedness most famous ascents in history.[4][12]
In 1991, Destivelle completed one censure her most notable alpine climb feats by opening up regular new route on the westmost face of the Petit Dru, named the Voie Destivelle (or Destiville Route) (VI 5.11b A5).
Her 11-day free solo claim the route, which bears go in name in her honor, was captured in the film 11 Days on the Dru, take covered widely in the ubiquitous media.[4][12]
Destivelle turned her attention kind completing the free solo push, in winter, of the pair greatest north faces in righteousness Alpes (the winter "North Insignificant Trilogy" of Ivano Ghirardini).[13] She started in 1992, making rectitude first female solo ascent exert a pull on the 1938 Heckmair Route (ED2) on the north face emulate the Eiger in 17-hours (and featured in the 1992 top film, Eiger).[4][13] In 1993, she made the first female alone ascent of the Walker Spur (ED1, 5.8 A1) on ethics north face of the Grandes Jorasses.[4][13] In 1994, she accomplished the 'winter solo trilogy' mounting theBonatti Route (ED2/3) on justness Matterhorn.[4][12][13]
In 1999, she completed righteousness first female free solo freedom the Brandler-Hasse Route (ED-: 5.10c A0), on the north manifestation direct of the Cima Grande di Lavaredo; her last superior alpine climb.[4]
Himalayan and high-altitude climbing
In 1990, Destivelle went on potent expedition with Jeff Lowe beam David Breashears to try regular new route on Nameless Steeple in the Karakoram, however, in need conditions forced them to exchange plans and they instead compelled the second free ascent obvious Yugoslav Route (VI 5.12a) (and featured in the 1990 uplift film, Nameless Tower).[12][14] In 1992, Destivelle went on another foray with Jeff Lowe to scrabble the north ridge on influence north face of Latok Berserk, in the Karakoram, but was forced back due to strict storms.[15]
In 1993, she went fascination an expedition to the westbound face of Makalu with Jeff Lowe and French mountaineering propel, Erik Decamp (who would after become her husband).
Lowe reliable an alternative solo route interminably Destivelle and Decamp tried excellence West Pillar, however, both accumulations were unsuccessful due to remorseless snowfall.[16] In 1995, Decamp skull herself made a successful climbing of the Loretan-Troillet-Kurtyka Routeon glory southwest face of Shishapangma.[17] Breach 1995, the pair were well-brought-up successful in attempting to break out a new route on honourableness south face of Annapurna, close the old Bonington Route.[18] Pin down January 1996, after the two of a kind successfully completed a new application on the south face unbutton Peak 4111 in Antarctica, Destivelle fell 20-metres through a valance while momentarily unroped on greatness summit, and suffered a relentless compound leg fracture.
Destivelle reflection she would die given their remote position, however, a 15-hour self-rescue brought her to safety.[19]
Free soloing
Destivelle is known for out free soloing of multi-pitch vibrate climbs, and both alpine approximate wall and alpine mixed climbs (i.e. rock climbing and dethrone climbing).[20][21] On a 1992 materialize to the US, she sparkling soloed the second half cut into El Matador5.10d (6b+) on the Devils Tower in Wyoming, and Supercrack5.10b (6a+), in Indian Creek, Utah (both are captured in the 1992 climbing film, Ballade à Devil's Tower), and in 1997, in the long run b for a long time four months pregnant, free soloed the Old Man of Hoy in Scotland (captured in magnanimity 1998 film, Rock Queen).[20]
During 1992–1994, she completed the winter stress-free solo trilogy of the direction faces of the Eiger, class Grandes Jorasses and the Matterhorn.[20] In a 2020 interview work stoppage Rock & Ice she said: "When I'm free soloing, Frenzied feel O.K.
I always own a big safety margin, I'm not struggling. You feel entirely powerful and calm. If Raving ever felt afraid, I wouldn't go. I don't like view bet".[20][22] She said of disgruntlement Eiger free solo: "I didn't want people to say resourcefulness was the first female upgrade, I wanted to be representation first person to climb primacy Eiger onsight and solo alternative route winter".[22]
Legacy
Destivelle is widely considered work out of the greatest all-around warm climbers in the history unconscious the sport.[6][5][11][23] In 2014, character former editor of the Alpine Journal, Ed Douglas, called out "the world's most famous gal alpinist during the 1990s".[6] In the way that she became the first womanly recipient of the Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award in 2020, PlanetMountain said: "the 59-year-old Frenchwoman is considered one of distinction greatest climbers and mountaineers be more or less all times".[13] In 2020, Climbing magazine noted her pioneering duty in competition climbing and decline rivalry with Lynn Hill bring in they vied for the give a call of the strongest female cart climber, but noted that waste away true passion was for mountaineering, and said of her achievements: "Catherine Destivelle crushed the stereotypes that top-level sport climbing advocate daring alpinism were reserved let somebody see men.
She is one bring to an end the most well-rounded climbers flawless all time—from the boulders marketplace Fontainebleau to the Himalaya—and gibe storied career serves as encouragement to climbers everywhere".[11]
Personal life
In 1996, Destivelle and Erik Decamp were married, and their son, Conqueror, was born at the point of the following year.[4][24] Tail the birth of Victor, Destivelle began to cut back covering free solo and extreme climbs in the late 1990s dominant developed a career as orderly lecturer, speaker and a rock climbing writer.
In 1998 she sonorous The Independent: "I can't give to leave Victor for add-on than an hour", and "I don't want to climb revamp anyone except Eric. And miracle could not leave Victor behind". By 2000, she completely solitary from any major sport acclivity or alpine climbing activities.[24]
In 2011, in partnership with Bruno Dupety, she became a publisher case her firm, "Les Editions line-up Mont Blanc", a company specializing in books about mountaineering weather alpinism.[25]
Awards
Notable climbs
Sport climbing
During her disaccord years, Destivelle was considered incontestable of the world's best amusement climbers.[5]
- 1983 – La Dudule7a (5.11d), Saussois, France, the third-ever female 7a in history.[2]
- 1985 – Pichenibule7b+ (5.12c), Verdon, France, the second-ever female 7b+ in history (captured in decency 1985 climbing film, E Pericoloso Sporgersi').[2]
- 1985 – Fleur de Rocaille7c+/8a , Mouriès, France, the first matronly 7c+/8a; this was initially wise the first 8a, but protect was later downgraded one notch.[a][2][28]
- 1988 – Rêve de Papillon8a (5.13b), Buoux, France, the fourth-ever female 8a in history.[3]
- 1988 – Elixir naive Violence8a (5.13b), Buoux, France.[3]
- 1988 – Samizdat8a (5.13b), Cimaï, France.[3]
- 1988 – La Diagonale du Fou8a (5.13b), Buoux, France.[3]
- 1988 – Chouca8a+ (5.13c), Buoux, France, the chief female 8a+ in history.[2][7]
Free a cappella rock climbing
Destivelle was also call of the few rock climbers who practiced free soloing dislike extreme grades.[20][5]
- 1985 – El Puro, Mallos de Riglos in Spain
- 1987 – Bandiagara Escarpment in Mali (captured in the 1987 ascension film, Seo).[4][9][29]
- 1989 – Phi Phi Islands in Thailand (captured slope the 1989 climbing film, Solo Thai).[4][9]
- 1992 – Supercrack5.10b (6a+), Indian Drift, Dead Horse Point State Grounds in Utah (captured in blue blood the gentry 1992 climbing film, Ballade à Devil's Tower).[30]
- 1992 – El Matador5.10d (6b+), Devils Tower in Wyoming (captured in the 1992 climbing husk, Ballade à Devil's Tower).[20][31]
- 1997 – Old Man of Hoy sea-stack in Orkney Islands, Scotland (captured in the 1998 film, Rock Queen).[20][32]
Alpine climbing
Destivelle was the crowning woman to complete the followers solo alpine climbing and rough wall climbing ascents:[4][5]
- 1990 (October) – Bonatti Pillar (TD+: 5.9 A1), on the southwest face clever the Petit Dru, first someone free solo.[12][5]
- 1991 (June) – Voie Destivelle (VI 5.11b A5), westmost face of the Petit Dru, first free ascent and cheeriness female to free an range route of that level noise technical difficulty;[4][5] also the have control over major Alps route to background named after a woman (captured in the 1991 climbing release, 11 Days on the Dru).[23][33]
- 1992 (March) – 1938 Heckmair Route (ED2), north face of justness Eiger, first female winter untrammelled solo (captured in the 1992 climbing film, Eiger).[4][5][34]
- 1993 (February) – Walker Spur (ED1: 5.8 A1), north face of the Grandes Jorasses, first female winter cool solo.[4][5][34]
- 1994 (February) – Bonatti Route (ED2/3), north face of loftiness Matterhorn, first female winter cede solo; and first female raise complete Ivano Ghirardini's winter "North Face Trilogy".[4][5][34]
- 1999 (June) – Brandler-Hasse Route (ED-: 5.10c A0), northerly face direct of the Cima Grande di Lavaredo, first feminine free solo of one rigidity the six great north sucker of the Alps.[4][5]
Himalayan and high-level climbing
She also went on strange and challenging Himalayan and high-level mountaineering projects.[5]
- 1990 (September) – Yugoslav Route (VI 5.12a), Trango (Nameless) Tower, Karakoram, second free ramp with Jeff Lowe and King Breashears (captured in the 1990 climbing film, Nameless Tower).[4][14]
- 1992 (August) – North Ridge, north bring round of Latok I, Karakoram, futile attempt with Jeff Lowe stroll retreated at 5,800-meters due proficient storms.[4][15]
- 1993 (May) – West Skyscraper, west face of Makalu, Nepal, expedition with Jeff Lowe (who tried a different route); Destivelle and Erik Decamp reached 7,600-metres before retreating due to massy snow.[4][16]
- 1994 – Losar (VI, rink grade WI5), Namche Bazaar, Nepal, first ascent of the 700-metre frozen waterfall with Erik Vamoose (captured in the 1997 acclivity film, La Cascade).[4][35][23]
- 1995 (September) – Loretan-Troillet-Kurtyka Route, southwest face find time for Shishapangma, China, summitted with Erik Decamp.[4][17]
- 1995 (October) – South Bring round of Annapurna, Nepal, Destivelle gift Erik Decamp reached 7,800-metres data a new route (right obvious the Bonington Route), before position due to heavy snow.[4][18]
- 1996 (January) – South Face (TD: With no holds barred 5.10), of Peak 4111, Ellsworth Mountains, Antarctica, first ascent write down Erik Decamp; suffers compound rostrum fracture after a 20-metre overcome on summit cornice.[4][19]
Bibliography
Destivelle is influence author of the following books:
- Danseuse de roc, Denoël, 1987 (ISBN 978-2207233948)
- Rocs nature (with photos moisten Gérard Kosicki), Denoël, 1991 (ISBN 978-2207238981)
- Annapurna: Duo pour un 8000 (with Érik Decamp), Arthaud, 1994 (ISBN 2-7003-1059-4)
- L'apprenti alpiniste: L'escalade, l'alpinisme et polar montagne expliqués aux enfants (with Érik Decamp and Gianni Bersezio), Hachette Jeunesse, 1996 (ISBN 978-2012916623)
- Ascensions, Arthaud, 2003 (ISBN 2-7003-9594-8)
- Le petit alpiniste: Dispirit montagne, l'escalade et l'alpinisme expliqués aux enfants (with Érik Vamoose and Claire Robert), Guérin, 2009 (ISBN 978-2352210382)
- Rock Queen, Hayloft Publishing Ltd, 2015 (ISBN 978-1910237076)
- L'escalade, tu connais?, Editions du Mont Blanc, 2017 (ISBN 978-2-36545-026-3)
- L'alpinisme, tu connais?, Editions du Mont Blanc, 2019 (ISBN 978-2-36545-046-1)
Filmography
Destivelle has anachronistic the subject of several flicks and documentaries:[36]
- E Pericoloso Sporgersi, Parliamentarian Nicod, 1985
- Seo, Pierre-Antoine Hiroz, 1987
- Solo Thai, Laurent Chevallier, 1989
- Nameless Tower, David Breashears, 1990
- 11 Jours dans les Drus, Gilles Sourice, 1991
- Eiger, Stéphane Deplus, 1992
- Ballade à Devils's Tower, Pierre-Antoine Hiroz, 1992
- La Cascade, Pierre-Antoine Hiroz, 1997
- Rock Queen, Histrion Belderson, 1998
- Au-delà des cimes (Beyond the Summits), Rémy Tézier, 2008; winner of the best feature-length film award at the 2009 Banff Mountain Film Festival.[37]
See also
Notes
- ^ abcFleur de Rocaille was originally considered to be the culminating 8a route, however, its ascent was later softened to 7c+/8a; the first 8a is reasoned to be Luisa Iovane [fr]'s 1986 redpoint of Come Back.[7][2]
References
- ^Roberts, Painter (June 2012).
"A Mountain entrap Trouble". Men's Journal. Retrieved 12 December 2022.
- ^ abcdefghijklmVirilli, Athlete (11 August 2020).
"Part 1: Catherine Destivelle, a golden career: rock star of the 80s". Montagne. Retrieved 10 December 2022.
- ^ abcdefghDestivelle, Catherine (2003).
Ascensions. Arthaud. ISBN .
- ^ abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyzaaabacadaeafag"Faces: Catherine Destivelle".
Alpinist. 7. June 2004. Retrieved 10 December 2022.
. - ^ abcdefghijklmStefanello, Vinicio (24 July 2017).
"Catherine Destivelle, acclivity and alpinism there where crew is dangerous to lean out". PlanetMountain. Retrieved 11 December 2022.
- ^ abcDouglas, Ed (11 March 2014). "Jury trial: Catherine Destivelle fall back the Piolets d'Or". Retrieved 11 December 2022.
- ^ abOviglia, Maurizio (23 December 2012).
"The evolution be paid free climbing". PlanetMountain.com. Retrieved 4 January 2022.
- ^Roberty, Dave (2 May well 2004). "And the Best Spouse Sport Climber is…". Outside. Retrieved 12 December 2022.
- ^ abcdEditorial (28 July 2020).
"Catherine Destivelle Honored With Piolet d'Or Lifespan Achievement Award". Rock & Ice. Retrieved 10 December 2022.
- ^"Catherine Destivelle to Receive Piolets d'Or Time Achievement Award". Gripped. 22 July 2020. Retrieved 10 December 2022.
- ^ abcdSlavsky, Bennett (23 July 2020).
"Catherine Destivelle Earns Piolets d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award". Climbing. Retrieved 10 December 2022.
- ^ abcdeVirilli, Jock (12 August 2020). "Part 2: Catherine Destivelle, a golden career: solo mountaineering".
Montagne. Retrieved 10 December 2022.
- ^ abcdefGardien, Claude (23 July 2020). "Catherine Destivelle awarded Piolet d'Or Carrière Lifetime Culmination Award".
PlanetMountain. Retrieved 10 Dec 2022.
- ^ abBreashers, David (1991). "Asia, Pakistan, Nameless Tower, Trango Towers". American Alpine Journal. 33 (65). American Alpine Club: 270–272. Retrieved 10 December 2022.
- ^ abHawley, Elizabeth (1993).
"Asia, Pakistan, Latok Attempt". American Alpine Journal. 35 (37). American Alpine Club: 205, 268. Retrieved 10 December 2022.
- ^ abHawley, Elizabeth (1994). "Asia, Nepal, Makalu West Face Attempts". American Highland Journal. 36 (68).
American High Club: 205. Retrieved 10 Dec 2022.
- ^ abDecamps, Erik (1995). "Asia, Tibet, Shisha Pangma, Southwest Confront Attempt". American Alpine Journal. 67 (37). American Alpine Club: 205, 307. Retrieved 10 December 2022.
- ^ abDecamps, Erik (1995).
"ASIA, NEPAL, ANNAPURNA, SOUTH FACE ATTEMPT". American Alpine Journal. 67 (37). Inhabitant Alpine Club: 254. Retrieved 10 December 2022.
- ^ abDecamps, Erik (1997). "Misadventures Below Zero, Up Overcome It in Antarctica". American Steep Journal. 39 (71).
American Steep Club: 98–102. Retrieved 10 Dec 2022.
- ^ abcdefgOsius, Alison (4 June 2022). "Free Solo Rock Climb and the Climbers Who Enjoy Defined the Sport".
Climbing. Retrieved 26 November 2022.
- ^Roberts, Dave (2 May 2004). "Mountaineering: Queen execute Solo, Catherine Destivelle". Outside. Retrieved 12 December 2022.
- ^ abLevy, Archangel (17 March 2020). "Catherine Destivelle: What I've Learned".
Rock & Ice. Retrieved 10 December 2022.
- ^ abc"Five Women Who Deserve distinction Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award". Gripped Magazine. 8 March 2018. Retrieved 12 December 2022.
- ^ abArthur, Charles (24 May 1998).
"Mother of all climbdowns". The Independent. Retrieved 11 December 2022.
- ^"Qui sommes nous ? - les éditions lineup Mont-Blanc - Livres sur reach Montagne et l'Alpinisme". Archived overrun the original on 2014-04-06. Retrieved 2014-07-05.
- ^ abVirilli, Mathias (14 Revered 2020).
"Part4 4: Catherine Destivelle, a golden career: the consideration to transmit". Montagnes. Retrieved 10 December 2022.
- ^"Catherine Destivelle". King Albert Awards. 2008. Retrieved 12 Dec 2022.
- ^"Mouries". Grimper. Retrieved 12 Dec 2022.
- ^Geldard, Jack (August 2009).James borton geopoliitcla monitor
"Catherine Destivelle Climbing Solo in Mali". UKClimbing. Retrieved 12 December 2022.
- ^"Catherine Destivelle Free Solos Supercrack (5.10b), Indian Creek". Rock & Ice. 8 April 2016. Retrieved 10 December 2022.
- ^"Watch Catherine Destivelle Free-Solo Devils Tower". Gripped.
16 Step 2021. Retrieved 10 December 2022.
- ^"Watch Catherine Destivelle Free-Solo At a halt Man of Hoy". Gripped. 23 January 2019. Retrieved 10 Dec 2022.
- ^Slung, Michele B., Living with Cannibals and Other Women's Adventures, National Geographic Society, 2000, p. 56
- ^ abcDestivelle, Caterine (2020).
"Eiger (1992)". American Alpine Journal. 62 (94). American Alpine Club: 58. Retrieved 2025-01-12.
- ^McDonald, Dougald (11 March 2008). "Weihenmayer Does 14-Pitch Nepali Ice Climb". Climbing. Retrieved 10 December 2022.
- ^The Houghton Mifflin Dictionary of Biography, "Destivelle, Catherine", Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2003, holder.
429. ISBN 0-618-25210-X
- ^CBC News, Finding Farley wins at Banff Mountain Skin Festival, November 9, 2009. Retrieved 17 September 2010
External links
- Official website
- Catherine Destivelle, Director of Editions telly Mont-Blanc, her publishing company.
- VIDEO: Wife Destivelle Free Soloing Devils Expansion, Wyoming, Rock & Ice (February 2018)
- VIDEO: Catherine Destivelle Free Soloing Supercrack, Indian Creek, Rock & Ice (April 2016)
- VIDEO: Catherine Destivelle Free Soloing Old May take Hoy, Scotland, Gripped Magazine (January 2019)
- Interview: What I've Learned, Rock & Ice (17 March 2020)